How do I get my car unstuck from snow?

Updated October 28, 20266 sources4 min read

Short answer

Clear the tailpipe first, then shovel snow away from the tires and from under the car, straighten the wheels, turn traction control off, and ease forward in the lowest gear with light throttle. If the tires spin, stop, put sand, cat litter or your floor mats in front of the drive wheels, and gently rock forward and back, coming to a full stop before every gear change; if a few tries don't work, call roadside assistance instead of spinning the tires or forcing it.

Safety first. Clear snow from the tailpipe before you start or keep the engine running; a blocked exhaust can fill the car with carbon monoxide, which you can't see or smell. Keep helpers out from behind and in front of the car while you try, and never let anyone stand near a tow strap under tension. Shoveling is hard on the heart; if you get chest pain, lightheadedness or a racing or irregular heartbeat, stop and call 911 if it doesn't pass quickly.

On this page

Step by step
What to do, in order
Which wheels are the drive wheels?
Common mistakes
When to stop and call for a tow
After you’re out
Keep it from happening again
Follow-up questions
Sources

Step by step

1
Clear the tailpipe and check the way out
Before you start the engine, dig snow away from the exhaust pipe (AAA, Progressive). Then look where you want to go, forward or back, and make sure the path is free of deep drifts, curbs or anything you could slide into.
2
Dig out the tires and the underside
Shovel snow from in front of and behind each tire and from under the car, especially anything piled higher than the car's ground clearance, so the body isn't resting on packed snow (AAA, Progressive). Make a few feet of clear track. No shovel? An ice scraper breaks up the ice under the tires; a rougher surface grips better (AAA).
3
Point the wheels straight and turn traction control off
Straight wheels plow less snow (NAPA, AAA). Traction control cuts power when the wheels slip, which is the opposite of what you need here, so switch it off with the button on the dash or console; some cars make you hold it for several seconds (NAPA, AAA). If you have selectable 4WD or AWD, turn it on (Progressive).
4
Ease out in the lowest gear with light throttle
Automatic in its lowest gear; NAPA says a manual often does better starting in a higher gear and feathering the clutch. Use part throttle. If the tires start spinning, back off right away; spinning digs you deeper and can polish the snow into ice (AAA, NAPA).
5
Add traction under the drive wheels
Spread sand, non-clumping cat litter or gravel in front of the drive wheels (and behind them if you're backing out), or wedge in your floor mats, cardboard, a board or traction boards (AAA). Drive wheels are the fronts on front-wheel drive, the rears on rear-wheel drive, all four on AWD and 4WD. Go easy on the gas; mats and boards can shoot out from under a tire.
6
Rock it, stopping before every shift
Drive forward as far as it will go, brake to a full stop, shift to reverse, back up gently, stop, and repeat to pack down a longer track and climb out of the rut (AAA, Progressive). Shifting while the car is still moving can damage the transmission (AAA). Give it a few tries, not dozens (Progressive).
7
Get a push, or call for help
Helpers push from the sides or rear while you apply gentle power in a forward gear, on ground that isn't too slippery for them (AAA). If you're still stuck after a few attempts, call roadside assistance; it's often the safest option (Capital One). Once free, keep rolling gently to firm ground, then stop and knock packed snow out of the wheels and turn traction control back on (Progressive).

What to do, in order

The order matters. Each step costs less effort than the next, and most cars come out by step 4 or 5. The two things that make it worse, every source agrees, are flooring it and spinning the tires.

Step	Why	Source
Clear the tailpipe	Carbon monoxide builds up if the exhaust is buried	AAA, Progressive
Dig out tires and underside	A car resting on packed snow can’t get the weight onto its tires	AAA, Progressive, Capital One
Wheels straight, traction control off	Less snow to plow; the system otherwise cuts power when the wheels slip	AAA, NAPA, Progressive
Lowest gear, light throttle	Spinning digs deeper and polishes snow into ice	AAA, NAPA
Traction under the drive wheels	Sand, litter, mats or boards give the tire something to grip	AAA, NAPA, Progressive, Capital One
Rock, with a full stop before each shift	Packs a longer track; shifting while rolling can hurt the transmission	AAA, Progressive
Push, then call for help	A few honest tries, then a tow is cheaper than a transmission	AAA, Capital One

Which wheels are the drive wheels?

That’s where the traction material goes, and those are the tires to dig out first (AAA):

Front-wheel drive (most sedans, small SUVs and minivans): the front tires.
Rear-wheel drive (many pickups and sports cars): the rear tires.
AWD or 4WD: all four. Turn selectable 4WD on before you start (Progressive).

Not sure? It’s in the owner’s manual, usually under “drivetrain” in the specs.

Common mistakes

Flooring it. Hard throttle spins the tires, digs them in and strains the axles, driveshaft and transmission (AAA).
Shifting while rolling. Rock gently, but come to a full stop before every change between drive and reverse (AAA, Progressive).
Leaving traction control on. It will keep cutting power at exactly the wrong moment (NAPA).
Melting with salt or antifreeze. Salt speeds rust; antifreeze is toxic to pets (Progressive).
Using a hitch ball as a pull point. Hitch balls and tie-down loops aren’t built for a recovery pull and can break off; rated recovery points or tow hooks only, and keep everyone well clear of the strap (Queensland Office of Fair Trading).
Shoveling past your limit. The American Heart Association says shoveling snow can raise the risk of heart attack, especially for people who don’t exercise regularly or have heart risk factors. Push snow rather than lift it, pace yourself, and stop at the first sign of chest pain or lightheadedness.

When to stop and call for a tow

Call roadside assistance (or 911 if you’re in danger) when:

A few rounds of rocking and traction haven’t moved you.
The car is high-centered, sitting on snow or a curb with the tires barely touching.
You’re on a highway shoulder or anywhere traffic could hit you or your helpers.
It’s dark, the storm is getting worse, or you’re getting cold or exhausted.

While you wait, stay with the car, keep the tailpipe clear, run the engine about 10 minutes an hour for heat, and make yourself visible. Our winter car emergency kit page has the full stranded-in-snow checklist.

After you’re out

Keep rolling gently until you’re on firm, plowed ground; stopping in the soft stuff can put you right back in.
Stop somewhere safe and clear packed snow and ice out of the wheels. Progressive notes packed snow and ice in the wheels can wear the tires, clog the tread and affect steering.
Turn traction control (and AWD, if you switched modes) back on (Progressive).
If you let air out of the tires, refill them to the pressure on the driver’s door jamb before you drive at speed. A tire pressure light after a cold night usually just means the tires need air.

Keep it from happening again

Tires first. Tread and tire type matter more than anything you carry. See do you need winter tires and when to replace tires.
Carry the get-unstuck gear all winter: a small shovel, a bag of sand or non-clumping cat litter, and traction boards if you drive in heavy snow. The full list is in the winter car emergency kit.
Keep momentum through deep snow. NAPA’s first tip: if the path ahead is clear, don’t stop; momentum often carries you through.

Common follow-up questions

Should I turn traction control off when I'm stuck in snow?

Yes, while you're getting unstuck. AAA, NAPA and Progressive all say so, because traction control cuts engine power the moment the wheels slip, and a little controlled wheel movement is what climbs you out of a rut. Turn it back on as soon as you're moving on firm ground.

Why shouldn't I floor it?

Hard throttle just spins the tires, which digs them deeper and can melt the snow under them into ice (AAA, NAPA). It also strains the axles, driveshaft and transmission (AAA). Light, steady throttle gets you out more often.

Can rocking the car hurt the transmission?

It can if you shift between drive and reverse while the car is still rolling. AAA and Progressive both say to brake to a full stop before every gear change, and Progressive says to give up after a few tries rather than keep at it.

What can I use for traction if I don't have sand or cat litter?

Your floor mats, a piece of cardboard, a board about 2 feet long, small gravel, or even branches (AAA, NAPA). Put it in front of the drive wheels to go forward or behind them to back out. AAA specifies non-clumping cat litter.

Should I let air out of my tires to get unstuck?

It's a last resort. NAPA and Progressive note that a slightly softer tire puts more rubber on the snow, but an underinflated tire is dangerous on the road; Progressive says only do it if you can refill nearby, and NAPA says drive slowly until you do. Set pressures back to the placard on the driver's door jamb.

Is it safe to have someone pull me out with a strap?

Only with a strap rated for recovery and attached to rated recovery points or tow hooks, never a trailer hitch ball or tie-down loop. Queensland's Office of Fair Trading warns that a standard tow ball "is not designed for this purpose" and that rebounding straps have killed bystanders. Capital One also warns against using a plain rope. If in doubt, call a tow truck.

Should I use salt or antifreeze to melt the snow?

Progressive advises against it: salt left on the body speeds up rust, and antifreeze is poisonous to pets and harmful to the environment. Sand or cat litter does the traction job without the damage.

Does AWD mean I won't get stuck?

No. AWD and 4WD help you get moving, but a car can still high-center on packed snow with every wheel spinning. Clearing snow from under the car and adding traction work the same on any drivetrain; see whether you need winter tires for the bigger fix.

Sources

General information only, not a diagnosis. Your owner’s manual comes first. How we write these